Eggs

Excellent Reference on Technique and Recipes. Buy It.
`Eggs’ by French / English chef and writer, Michel Roux is a book about which I would applaud with much hoopla, if it were not for the fact that there is a probably equally good book, `the good egg’ by Marie Simmons which has a greater range of recipes and, I believe equally good advice on all matters eggy.The irony of both these books is that there is better basic egg wisdom in that old war-horse, `From Julia Child’s Kitchen’ than there is in either of these two books. Of course, that standard has nowhere near the number of recipes on eggs that are in either of these volumes, but if you want a complete egg library, Julia’s classic should be there.The most marked differences between the two books is that Roux’ book is profusely illustrated with truly brilliant photographs illustrating his most important dishes and techniques while Ms. Simmons has many more recipes, some covering whole genera of egg recipes overlooked by Monsieur Roux.When we are dealing with eggs, especially those famous French basics of omelets, poached eggs, baked eggs, souffles, and scrambled eggs, the whole story is in the technique, and that technique probably has to be practiced several times before getting it right, especially the famous dexterity required to prepare the perfect omelet. The irony is that according to Elizabeth David, the best omelet technique happens to be the one which you like (after which she proceeds to give a ten step procedure for how to make a good omelet).On the basics, Monsieur Roux is just a little better, not only by the use of the great pics, but also for his explanations of the basic techniques and his order of presentation, but Simmons is really not far behind, and if you happen to already be pretty handy in the kitchen, Simmons’ book, with her larger number of recipes, may actually preferable for you.Roux gives us the following chapters:Boiling eggsPoached eggsFried EggsScrambled EggsBaked EggsOmeletsSoufflesCrepes & BattersEgg-Rich Pastries & PastaCustards, Creams & MoussesIce CreamsMeringues & SpongesSauces & DressingsSimmons does not cover Crepes & Batters and she does not give a recipe for making fresh egg pasta, but if you are a foodie, the odds are good that you already have seven books with crepe recipes and four books with egg pasta recipes. On the other hand, Simmons has more recipes of every type, including lots of recipes for egg salads and quiches which Roux does not cover (he does have a recipe for the Quiche Lorraine, but that’s all). Simmons also has many recipes for strata (eggy layered dishes similar to lasagna) while Roux doesn’t even mention them.On price, it’s a really hard call. Both are extraordinarily reasonable, with Roux listing for a scant $24.95. I can find not one thing in Roux’ book with which I would take issue. Like Simmons’ work, it is a revelation to the novice cook to see the great variety of things you can do with eggs, and how one can, with just a little educated technique, elevate basic dishes such as scrambled eggs, fried eggs, poached eggs, and baked eggs to a whole new level of interest.If you are a novice cook, get Roux book now! If you are more advanced and have a well-stocked cookbook library, Simmons may be a bit more useful, but you will still learn much from Roux.

A model specialty cookbook
As a big fan of Michel Roux’s Sauces, and sick of thumbing through generalist cookbooks looking for the definitive Hollandaise recipe or the exact timing for mollet eggs, I was very happy to see this great chef tackle this fundamental topic. The book has exceeded every expectation. I hoped it would cover the basics: frying, poaching, boiling, etc. It does that in great detail, clearly and accessibly. But it also presents many classic recipes that feature eggs: a very rich and custardy [and easy] cherry clafoutis, a sort of savory-herbed french toast, an outrageously delicious carbonara sauce, mousses, curds, meringues… 299 pages of flawless, rewarding recipes. As with Sauces, I am impressed not just by the depth and accuracy of the contect, but by the outstanding graphic design and photography.Next time you want to make somebody really happy without spending much time or money, try the Spanish Tortilla with Chorizo. I’ve been making it for my kids for breakfast and they love it, but it is equally well-received with wine and candles. With a little more effort, make the fresh egg noodles. They are silky, rich, and redolent of olive oil, ready for the simplest sauce [or a manly Bolognese], the basis for a memorable but simple supper.If you master a couple dozen egg recipes you’ll always have something to fall back on. You may even come to see eggs as main-course material.Highly recommended!

Sorry about the review title. Some people would think that a cook book on eggs would be boring. Don’t be put off by this. It’s packed with all sorts of helpful hints and tips. I love to cook and probably thought I knew all the basic things there was to know. How wrong I was. Even if you do know them it is good to get the book just to refresh your memory. There are some great recipes and they are easy to follow. I have Michel Roux’s books on Pastry and Sauces, these are worth having as well.

This is one of the very best reference books on eggs I have ever seen. This is a required book on eggs for all lovers.